NZ Adventures #5: Catching the Ferry to South Island

Earth date:  Sunday, November 18, 2019

Agenda:  Wellington ➜ Ferry to Picton ➜ Nelson

A Ferry Trip

Mornings are just so early.  So very early.   6am is really early when you've just fallen asleep in a large, very comfy bed.  But, we had a ferry to catch to Picton on the South Island, and we were supposed to drop the car off by 7:30am and be checked-in and ready to board by 8:15am.  /yawn.  But I am super excited about seeing the South Island!

We jot over to the ferry and squeeze our car into a non-Hertz car rental return space.  Are we worried about it?  Maybe slightly.  But eh?  NEW ZEALAND!

The Interislander ferry ride was about 3.5 hours, and of course, provided plentiful beautiful scenery.  We chilled out at the back of the ferry sitting across from large windows (in need of a good wash, I must add) that provided a decent view.  Jayme chilled.  He's like eh, it's a ferry just like in Vancouver.  I'm like we are in freakin' NZ! (the novelty hasn't yet worn off), and ran around for a while taking bad photos before finally settling down in my seat.

See.  Pretty bad photography.  Why is it not even straight?  And my bestie gave me a photography class for Christmas a few years ago.  Yes, I did attend the class.  This is why Jayme is in charge of photography.  But he was chilling and not interested in capturing the barely visible landscape due to the fog.  I mean, whatever.

Really, he had the right idea.  Just chill.  We were up early, and we'll be able to take in the beauty when we arrive.  Sensibility really rubs me the wrong way sometimes.




This snap wasn't too bad.  Hard to mess up that loveliness.  This is arriving into the South Island's Queen Harbor Sound.

Picton

See how the ferry weaves into the Sound.  The scenery on either side of the ship was gorgeous, primarily low forest with an occasional homestead.

Picton is a major transportation hub for the area, but you'd never know it.  It's a quaint little town, and part of the local wine region.  Diving is popular here.  I mean just look at the azure waters.  So is driving, and that's much more our speed.

After picking up Hertz-mobile #2, we lunched at a cute cafe, called Waves, on the main drag, High Street.  Of course we lunched first.  What are we, skinny?  Waves has a patio out back, so we enjoyed the usual fare - burgers, salad and of course, chips (aka fries).  Jayme fed the amiable birds hopping about the table area, who also really enjoy chips.  Just close enough to catch a chip, but far enough to dash around a lobbed chip.  Clever, scavenging birdies.

And then we're off!  North(ish) on Queen Charlotte Drive, headed to Cullen Point Overlook.  It's a 44 minute drive to go roughly 30km.  Because it's a swervy, twisty, windy, turny and tummy-troubling drive through lovely bush and sparkling views of the ocean.  Just beautiful.  Too beautiful not to stop for a few snaps.

The sky is brilliant blue; the waters are azure and teal, at the same time; the foliage is sharp, fresh green; the company is delightful.  Surely, this must be one of the most lovely places on the planet.

A restroom + water stop at Momorangi Bay, which is basically a camping site and store right there on the bay.  If we should tire of our new place in Hobbiton, we might consider the offer to run the camp store.  What?  I can sell stuff.

Cullen Point Lookout

Then we're off to Cullen Point Lookout, which is basically a blip on the windy, twisty, turny Queen Charlotte Drive, but very formally named the Cullen Point Scenic Reserve.  More importantly, it's a 10-minute walk up, up, up to magnificent, post-card worthy views of Mahau Sound on the right and town of Havelock on the left.

 Now look, there's no need to be jelly of my travel hat.

The vegetation is scrubby, ferns and beeches, sporting as many shades of green as there are shades of blue in the sound waters.

Pelorus Bridge

Next stop:  Pelorus Bridge, which is a teensy, one-lane suspension bridge over the intersection of the Rai and Pelorus Rivers.  They do that alot on the South Island, one-way bridges and passes.  It's nerve-wracking... waiting to see what the car on the other side will do.  Chicken anyone?

Officially, it's the Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve now.  I guess when you have a population of 1.038 million on the South Island and land mass of  58,084 square miles, you can call a wee bridge a Scenic Reserve.  Scenic it is.

We noted quite a few families picnicking and a couple of crazy folks jumping into the river from the rocks below the bridge.  And in nothing but their skivvies.  It's nature, man.

This was our introduction into camper and backpacking life.  I wouldn't really begin to get it until we sat in front of a bunch of young backpackers on the water taxi in Abel Tasman tomorrow... but I'm getting ahead of myself.  For now, we are reveling in the magnificent views (not in the skivvies) and curvy drive.  Making our way slowly to Nelson.

Nelson

We arrived in Nelson by about 5:00pm and made our way to our motel for the evening.  We are wary.  Will it be a RotoVegas repeat?  Please, dear JC, no thank you.  Annnndd....It wasn't!  The Palms Motel Nelson was your standard issue motel, but renovated, clean and with nice amenities.  Thank goodness!

We googled restaurants with vegan options for dinner, and found one within walking distance of The Palms in the Nelson downtown area.  East St Cafe pops up with high Google ratings.  Jayme is a giving soul, and decides tonight he'd take one for the team and eat vegan.  East St Cafe is eclectic and awesome!  I wish we'd taken pictures of our plates, cuz it was a lot of delish food.  It was overwhelming to have a choice of anything on the menu, but I pulled through, people, don't you worry.  Plus we have to try a drink -- I think I had something fun like an elderberry tonic.  Oh, and another plus - dessert!  I am a fat and happy woman tonight.  We are seated next to a big family party, so people watching was another plus.  People watching is one of my favorite travel activities.  Jayme says I'm creepy, but whatever.  I'm observing local customs and interesting interactions.

After dinner we explore downtown, walking through the main courtyard, Trafalgar Square towards Nelson Cathedral.  Dinner is just getting started for Sunday evening, so the colorful umbrellas are out and folks are taking their seats.  Nelson is a quaint city, and the weather is just awesome.

We wander up to Nelson Cathedral and mosey through the gardens out front.  Nelson Cathedral is an Anglican church, built in the 19th century, then renovated in the early 1900s.  It's tower is 35 meters high and can pretty much be spotted anywhere in Nelson.

We're still feeling tired and jet lagged, or maybe just old and chubby.  So we don't tarry too long.  I meant to wander around Trafalgar Square to ogle in the window of the Jens Hansen Gold and Silversmith shop.  Jens was the designer of the One Ring.  You know, that one.  But I totally forgot, as all the blood had rushed from my head to my stomach to digest all that delicious vegan grub.  We are figuring out Monday plans, so we head back to the motel for down time and planning.

We--ok, I decide that Monday is going to be a water adventure of some sort in Abel Tasman.  I'm determined to have a beach adventure somewhere in NZ, and I'd set my sights on Abel Tasman National Park on the northern coast of the South Island.  My original idea was a morning of kayaking before the 4-hour drive to the West Coast.  That idea was not going over well with the Hubs, so we decided instead to catch a water taxi at Muahara.  Turns out Jayme was spot on... but we won't mention that out loud.  Can't let it go to his head.

Tune into the next NZ Adventure for pristine beaches, marvelous views, backpackers, wood chopping and beach caves here.

My grandmother was a rockin' kind of lady, and she went home on Friday, February 15

My grandmother was a rockin' kind of lady.  She wasn't the typical grandma -- no knitting, canning or much cooking, really, unless you count dry roast (in the crock pot) and wicked delicious Thanksgiving stuffing.  She was a banker.  She loved to dance.  The only song on the piano she could play (to my recollection) was Minnie the Moocher.  We went to line dancing classes with her.  She went to water aerobics religiously.  She loved JC, and in a Southern Baptist culture, wasn't afraid to attend the edgy Assembly of God.  She didn't make the best choices in husbands.  But she loved her daughters and grandchildren fiercely.  She was proud of us, and we loved her.

She was Grandmommie, as we called her as kids.  It became Grams as we got older and weren't into "mommie" titles anymore.  Plus, who had time for a three syllable word when you're a kid asking for something.  As a young grandmother, I doubt she would have put up with "Grams," being a sophisticated kind of lady.  But as we got older, what could she do?  It did make shopping for cards difficult, as "Grandma" cards were off limits.  You don't find many "Grandmother" cards in the 99¢ section.  Nope, Grams loved those ridiculously expensive $4.99+ jobs.  Not being a believer in cards, because folks typically just throw them away (*looking at you, Mom*), I found myself resenting buying expensive cards.  But you know what Melody found when going through things in Grams' dresser this weekend?  Loads of cards that she'd kept.  She did enjoy receiving lovely cards.  And if they were one of those new ones with a recorded sound or song -- even better.

We lost our sweet Grams on Friday.  Friday, February 15, 2019.

Mildred Glover was 96 years old, and she lived a long, full life.  She was born and raised during the Great Depression and World War II.  Her parents were teachers and entrepreneurs.  They owned several grocery stores in Altus, OK.  Mildred Jean didn't lack for much in life, and grew up a spritely young woman, who was also independent.  We didn't talk much about an early marriage to her high school beau or her time in Jackson, MI, working in a factory while the men-folk were off at war.  But, I think that's pretty cool.  She wasn't away from Altus long, and began a career at the First National Bank there, eventually becoming Officer over CDs.  I think that's pretty cool, too.  Other grandmothers were canning beets (which is cool).  My grandmother was helping others with their finances (which is slightly cooler than beet canning).

Mildred was independent almost up to the very end, preferring to live in her own house.  She was not a perfect human by any means.  She leaves a lot of feelings to be worked through by her family.  But she was ours and she was loving + supportive, especially during hard family times.

We held a service for her yesterday, Monday, February 18, 2019.  It was a whirlwind to prepare.  But I think we did her justice, sending her off with love and style.  Plus, I learned that Melody (my marvy sister) and I are a pretty good team.  We get cranky, but we partner well and leverage each other's strengths.  That was fun to learn.  We became expert at fending off David's (my fab cousin) suggestions to include both Minnie the Moocher and the Cotton-Eyed Joe in the service.  While tempting, we didn't think our Moms or those attending would approved.  David, for your edification, we are celebrating both Minnie and Joe here.  This version of the Cotton-Eyed Joe was featured on the Urban Cowboy soundtrack, which we grew up with.  David played the Red Nex version a lot this weekend, and Melody just loves it (yeah, not so much, especially when it's midnight and you're really tired).

A hidden blessing during the long weekend was working with my sister and seeing David and the kiddos.  I realized how much I miss seeing David and his family, and my, how quickly kids grow up.

At the service, one of the great-granddaughters shared a poem she wrote for Grams on the drive to Altus.  It was fabulous and she was bold.  David's kids are going to run the country one day, and we'll be lucky citizens.  I shared a few words from the grandkid's perspective.  Sweet memories of hot summer days at the Granite Waterslide, watching Grams' bathing suit cover up fly behind her as she shwooshed down the slide, through the curves.  Her fuzzy hair peeping over the side of the slide followed by the purple wings of her cover-up.  We giggled -- roll on the ground giggles.

Shopping for school clothes and starting the first day of school with confidence that we would look pretty dapper in our new duds.

Christmas.  Christmas was an event at Grams' house.  Gifts and eating.  So much eating.  Christmas Eve was buffet-style tasty goodness followed by hours of gift unwrapping.  Our family tradition is the child torture-method.  The one where each person opens a gift and everyone has to offer plenty of ooos and aaahhhs over it.  We go around the circle, each person opening one gift, repeating until all gifts have been unveiled.  It takes forever, and it's a kids worst nightmare.  The adults were relentless, and of course, it's one we enjoy carrying forward.  Grams was the Queen of Christmas and presided over the event perched on the Victorian sofa in the formal living room surrounded by mounds of presents.  Then we went to bed early -- which was not my favorite part -- because Santa.  Santa was very generous to us three kids, and there was much assembly that happened by Santa's elves to be ready for the early morning.  It's a wonder my family didn't drink more what with the Barbie condos that were erected in the span of a few hours.  Do you remember the number of decals involved in Barbie furnishings?!  Christmas morning was a dazzling display of loot, and I do mean loot, for each of us.  Arrayed in three pie-wedge sections.  Christmas was a brilliant affair, and I think the three of us were the luckiest children on the planet.  The feeling of Christmas morning is one I don't expect to ever be replicated, and is an uber special one for me.  Not because of the stuff, but because of the togetherness, love, effort and magical-ness our parents put into it.  And Grams was a big part of that.

I have a lot of great memories of Grams.  And some not so great ones, too.  But you know what was neat and also confusing?  The way her Caretakers and friends talked about her.  They Loved her.  Love with a capital L.  And from some of the stories they shared, she wasn't always nice.  Her selfish side showed itself frequently, especially as she began to be ill consistently.  And yet they were crazy about her.  They were generous and caring and spoiled her.  I'm grateful for them and their Love for her during the final days.  They are amazing women.

As I reflect back on Grams and these last few months, my heart is relieved that she's not suffering any longer.  It's relieved that she's been called home to hang with JC.  In spite of her foibles and her tenacious hold on life, she was a firm believer in Christ and at the end longed to finally meet him.  My heart is grateful for the vibrant woman that she was.  My heart is especially grateful for the gifts of my mom and aunt.  Grandmommie, we love you and we miss you.

NZ Adventures #4: "I will take the Ring to Mordor. Though… I do not know the way.” -Frodo

Earthdate:  Saturday, November 17, 2018

Today we are saying goodbye to Roto Rooter and hello to Wellington.  But first, we must pass through the dreaded Mordor... no, not really.  But we will pass through Whakapapa.  Bwhahaha!

No, really.  We will.

First Stop:  Huka Fallas

Our first adventure for the day was Huka Falls.  We took a short walk to the lookout to stretch our legs and take a few pics.

Then a short drive to the falls lookout point with a few of our close tourist friends.  Outside of a city and Frans Josef Glacier, this is the most people we would see together at one site.  Look past the people, Friends, to the foam caps emptying into cool, teal blue water.

At Huka Falls, the water is squeezing from a 100 meter-wide river, through a 15 meter natural gorge, then back out into the azure river.  It's natural hydro-power!  It's 250,000 liters of water per second thundering through the Waikato River, filling your swimming pool several times over every second.

I've also since learned that it's the most visited natural attraction in NZ.  Interesting.  That explains the horde of tourists.  And yes, Huka Falls is super cool.  But... it's not the most interesting natural attraction in NZ.  By far not the most interesting or beautiful.  But whatever, tourists.

Snap, snap. Ogle, ogle.  Check.  On to the next beautiful scene.

We head on south to Taupo on guess... Lake Taupo.  Taupo is super cute.  The downtown area overlooks the lake and we stop for a quick cuppa.  We wished we'd stayed here, and not but an hour south of Rotorua.  Anywho, the past is the past, and we're still in freakin' New Zealand and sighting beautiful waterfalls everywhere.  Yep, keep reading, we find another beautiful fall.

Approaching, but never quite arriving at Mount Doom

You know how in LOTR they are always approaching Mount Doom, but never quite arriving?  They end a scene, with relief that they are so very close, but panning out, that darned mount is still way off in the distance.  Be realistic people.  It's not like Frodo is just gonna skip over and toss that ol' ring in the pit in the next half hour.

Approaching Mount Ngauruhoe, aka Mount Doom, is like that.  Yep, just like that.

oooo. Do you see it?  Just peaking above the lovely yellow gorse. (Stay tuned for a post about the flora and fauna of NZ.  Itching for shots of mushrooms?  Lupins?  We have them.  As I said, stay tuned.)

At this point, I am cackling in a frenzy, so excited to see THE MOUNT DOOM!

See Jayme is clearly on his way, but just. not. quite. there...

See how almost perfectly cylindrical the top is?  That's why Mr. Jackson chose Mount Ngauruhoe as Mount Doom.  It's like a perfect volcano.  A perfectly functioning stratovolcano.  Apparently a young stratovolcano, with the last eruption in 1977.  Like yesterday.  It erupted 45 times in the 20th century!  45!  Wikipedia says it's a level 0 -- meaning unlikely to erupt.  But whatever.  Active volcano, and we're traipsing around, enjoying the marvels.  Needless to say, we did not tarry long.  Well, not true.  We may have checked out Tawhai Falls and a nerdy LOTR site.  We were living on. the. edge.  #YOLO

Mount Ngauruhoe is not the only mount in Tongariro.  It's one of three and not the tallest peak in Tongariro National Park.  Guess the name of the tallest peak?  Bingo, Mount Tongariro.  Sensing a theme here, eh?  Mount Ruapehu is the other.  Tongariro National Park is the oldest national park in NZ, and the 6th national park established in the world.  That's neat.

Second Stop:  Tawhai Falls

We wind our way down SH1, on the way to Whakapapa Village to see if we can't get a closer look at Mount Doom.  We spot a lookout for Tawhai Falls...AND I've learned from my handy dandy LOTR Guidebook that it's also where Gollum caught fish while Faramir and his boys spy on him.  Bam.

It's another lovely walk to a very lovely waterfall that tumbles over an ancient lava flow.  Amazeballs.

We had fun tramping around and exploring a bit, checking out the lava flows, yo, and the frothy rapids and teal waters.

See, there's Gollum!  #myprecious
No, I jest.  Too tall.  That's a guy from The States.

And this is more amazing waterfall and NZ fauna.  Again, amazeballs beautiful.

Third Stop:  Chateau Tongariro Hotel & Whakapapa Village

Loads of water + waterfalls make for plenty of bio breaks.  So we check out Chateau Tongariro, also where the LOTR actors stayed.  Aiyeee!  It's located smack dab in the middle of nowhere or so it seems... you're driving along admiring the mountains in the distance and then there it is, perched at the foot of Mount Ruapehu.  It was built in the 1920s and fun to roam through looking for the loo.

The folks at Chateau Tongariro have a movie theater.  You know why?  Cuz there's nothing else out that way except nature.  But I don't think showing dated kiddie movies really counts as a worthy movie theater experience in the midst of volcano-ville.  The show is outside, folks... in Mordor!

And how convenient that Mordor is located just 15 minutes from the Chateau.  I don't think Frodo figured that out.

Really, can't you see Mordor in this landscape of volcanic rock and dusty ash?!  It was in these bluffs that orcs attacked the valiant Alliance.

And I brought home an illicit Mordor rock in my make-up bag.  #rulespfft!

Whakapapa Village, an alpine skiing community in the winter months, was under construction.  Navigating cranes and large construction equipment was not on the daily agenda, so after scoring a Mordor memento and putzing around a bit, we headed out to the next stop.

Mordor, we wish you good day.

Fourth Stop: Mangawhero Falls

We're driving out of Mordor, and into the southern end of the Tongariro National Park.  We pass through the quaint village of Ohakune up to the Turoa Ski area along the Ohakune Mountain Road Scenic Drive (hilarious, cuz that's rather obvious) seeking out another LOTR site.  This one, also a fishing site -- this time it's Smeagol fishing -- at the top of Mangawhero Falls.  We also located an open glade where they filmed some of Sam and Frodo's travels.

The road is rather rustic, which only makes us feel like we're really oan an adventure!

See, our trusty hatchback is the only car in the lot... it's quiet here.  Just our kind of place.

We wander around looking for Smeagol's exact fishing spot, and we think we found it.  Either way, we are enjoying exploring along the trickling stream.

We pass along a barrier protecting us (ok me) from a tumble down a steep cliff, to discover Mangawhero Falls.

And a field where Sam and Frodo travel through.  That's Mount Ruapehu in the background.


It's about 3:30pm by this time and while we could keep exploring, there's a 3-hour drive ahead of us to Wellington.  We press on.







The drive to Wellington is lovely pastoral scenery of farming lands.  The foothills of the Tongariro Range are soft, rounded hills covered in green blankets of lush green grass.  They look like tumbled runnels of soft earth with terraces spaced throughout.

Wellington

We arrive in Wellington about 7:30pm.  It's raining.  We're tired and hungry and having trouble finding hotel parking.  It's located on a half street -- wait, what's a half street? -- so we circle two or three times.  There's no place to pull over, and Wellington is a proper downtown like other big cities -- streets are one-way and folks want to get where they are going without gawking tourists holding up progress.  Finally we figure it out, and are checked-in and open the door to what feels like the Doubletree Wellington palace.  A huge king-sized bed in a clean, opulent room.  We are in heaven.  Jayme's like, screw dinner, let's just hang out in the room.  But that is not on the tourist list.

We head out to Cuba Street for dinner.  Cuba Street is a mecca of trendy, hip shopping and tastes.  So naturally, being hip-ful trendsetters, we must check out the digs on Cuba Street.  It's a pedestrian mall, and busy with young hipster folks out and about.  People watching was fun.

Trusty Google recommended Loretta's for dinner, which features chickens on their menu and signage.  Well, great.  Pictures of the live version of what you're about to eat is weird.  But, your call, carnie Friends.  Finding a menu that satisfies both BooBoo + the Honey Badger is a 30-minute endeavor, so at this point, we pick something.

You know there's just something about Saturday night.  Like everyone wants to go out for dinner or something.  Even on the other side of the planet, Saturday night is a thing.  Needless to say at 9:00pm Loretta's is packed.  That must mean it's a shiny pick, right?  They squeeze us in, which is a good thing, cuz we are about to eat our own arms for dinner.  I opt for salad and bread.  Eyebrow raise from the waitress.  Just for that, I plan to eat the whole loaf on my own.  Jayme ordered pasta of some sort.  Bueno.

We wander blearily back to the palace, looking forward to clean sheets and a good night's sleep.  It's a super early day on Sunday to catch the ferry to Picton on the South Island.  Good night, Wellington.  We wish we'd had more time to explore.  Weta Cave, I'll be back.

In the next episode, the hair-pin turns begin.

NZ Adventures #3: A Day in Roto Rooter or The Trials of Jet Lag

Stardate 72341.2 (aka Friday, November 16, 2018)

We are up early, as we do.  Plus RotoVegas.  Blerg.  No reason to lounge around in the grime.  But really, there's no need for negativity.  After all, we are still in NEW ZEALAND!  

We scope out Third Place Cafe for breakfast, located on Lake Rotorua and overlooking the Māori village, Ohinemutu.

I start the day oh so sensibly with a smoothie.  Jayme goes for the huge and delicious french toast.  We are learning that just about all food in NZ is going to be fresh and righteous.

Kuirau Park

After breakfast we walk around Kuirau Park to check out the odoriferous steam pools.  Rotorua is part of the Taupo Volcanic Zone.  Thus explaining the underlying sulfur smell.  And Kuirau is a VOLCANIC park just right there in the middle of the city. 

While surrounded by trashy bits (really people, have some pride in your smelly hometown steam holes), the steam pools were pretty cool.  Noxious, burbling pools of mud and hot water surrounding by colorful mineral deposits.  Geothermal activity is pretty awesome.  How can one not be awed by this:  Ascending hot magmatic fluids mix with near-surface groundwater to form active geothermal systems with dramatic surface features such as hot springs, solfataras, fumaroles, mudpots, geysers, and hot acid lakes?* 

It brings to light the fact that we are building our homes and living our lives on a bit of crust floating on hot magma.

Anywho.  We strolled Kuirau park, but despite visitor claims, did not find a hot pool to soak our feet in.  Trash lined most of the pools and the burbles did not invite toe dips -- oh and neither did the DANGER:  THERMAL AREA signage.  And I'm realizing that we also did not capture any pictures of Kuirau Park.  Our bad.  A link will have to suffice.

After strolling for half an hour or so, we are realizing that Jayme is not feeling great.  Yet we press on.  We are still not terribly impressed with Rotorua, or Roto Rooter, as we affectionately have named it.  But the day is young and there's more to explore.  

Ohinemutu

I want to see Ohinemutu, the original settlement of Rotorua and an entact Maori village.  Not really sure what that entails.  Some references say a "living" Māori village.  Of course they are living.  Dramatic.  People living near one another is a city, right?  Whatever, we must see it.  Jayme is iffy, but obliges.

We drive around.  Yep, a thriving suburb of ~270 folks in houses.  

We stop at St Faith's Anglican Church.  It's precious.   I step inside, and a delightful gentleman finds me. He is there with his wife, who I think was a chapel attendant.  He gave me the history of the church, the Māori-styled Jesus window and with a proud smile reported that he and his wife were married in this very church 50 years ago.  Bless he and his wife!

He was sure to point out which pew to sit in to see the window of Māori-style Jesus to the best advantage.  See Him walking on the water?  Pretty neat.  I see why it's a thing to see.  

The church is perched on the northern end of a courtyard where a Māori gathering is in the works.  We wander by the war memorial and avoid a gathering at the Tamatekapua meeting house, so as not to disturb.  We don't like being "those" tourists.

Before we move on to the next site to check off our (my) list, I mosey over to a kind of shrine with one of the Queen Mothers' head sculpted up top.  It sits over a bubbling spit of water surrounded by green grass.  So interesting.  No plaque, so I'm not sure what I'm looking at.

I've noticed a mixture of Māori and English decor that I find fascinating.  Maori sculpture is bold and animated.  The English influence is muted colors and prim.  Together, it's a unique mix.

Government Gardens

Next stop are the Government Gardens in the heart of Rotorua.

Rotorua Museum -- closed up shop and went home due to structural integrity issues that may or may not be resolved

The rose garden in Rotorua was our favorite rose garden (as we are great connoisseurs of rose gardens, naturally).  Sorry Jeremy and Matt, the Roto Rooter Rose Garden won in the rose garden bowl.

The architecture of the Rotorua Museum (previously a bath house) calls us over, only to discover that it's closed indefinitely due to structural issues.  Well that's a shame.  But croquet.  Croquet is alive and well in Rotorua.  Who knew?

See what I mean about the Māori + English architectural combo:

Coolness.  Māori art butts + Victorian formal.

Next, shopping!  I am on the hunt for affordable jade, or greenstone, to bring back as gifts.  We find a proper tourist shop and I dig in.  Jayme is a trooper, though he is really not feeling great at this point.

We drive out to Lake Rotorua for a gander and few quick pics.  I'm sorry Lake Rotorua, but I'm just not taken with you.

After shopping, we decide to get Jayme back to the room for some rest.  Jet lag has finally taken a toll, not to mention the huge plate of french toast for breakfast.  Oh, and what about that suspect butter chicken pie from last night?  

Afternoon Stroll

I huff noisily around the room for a bit, because I'm really not wanting to hang out mentally noting all the grimy corners when beautiful New Zealand is out there.  Here's the catch -- left-side driving with no wingman.  Hmmm... avoiding a wreck on day 3 outweighs my stubbornness to take the car and explore.  So I set out on foot for the main drag.  It's not far -- it's an island, really, nothing is that far per Texas standards.  

It's lunch and I'm hungry.  Smoothie goodness has worn off.  I google a restaurant with vegan options and set off.

  

Artisan Cafe Rotorua.  Yum.  Vegan Buddah Bowl + lemon slice from the cabinet.  See what I mean the food is beautiful.  Fresh, tasty and beautiful.

Cabinet food.  I love that about NZ.  I'm already loving cafes and cabinet food.





I had planned on visiting one of the Māori tourist-trap villages, but ruled that out without Jayme and on account of the touristy-ness.  I couldn't imagine a thermal park more grand than Yellowstone.  I decide a rest in the motel would do me some good, too.  At this point, I'm really tired of the underlying smell of rotten eggs.  And the day is feeling long.

Blue & Green Lakes

By 4pm-ish after a long nap, Jayme is feeling better, and he agrees to venture out.  Likely because I'm driving him mad.  Good man.

Without a better plan, we target the creatively named Blue & Green Lakes on the outskirts of Rotorua.

We check out Blue Lake first.  Blue Lake's proper name is Lake Tikitapu, and it's a collapsed volcanic crater.  They say you can see the blue tint due to the pumice and rhyolite in the lake bed.  I noticed it being lovely -- not necessarily more blue than Green Lake is green.

The water is cold and clear.  The air is fresh and the sky blue.  You can see the edge of the Redwood Forest (Whakarewarewa) edging up to the lake.

Kids are toddling around and a mom and daughter are coaxing a dog out into the water.  It makes us wonder how our Willow is doing.  Happy with her Friends, we hope.















Oh wait.  Is that a cave-like opening in the trees?  Well then, according to Jayme's code of exploration, we must have a look.  The path meanders along the shore of the lake within the forest.  It's peaceful.  Oh yes, I said that already.  Still true.

It's about 5km around the perimeter of the lake and while we consider the hike, neither of us are really up for it at this point.  We venture in a bit, then head back to the car to find Green Lake.





Green Lake will remain a mystery to us.  It's on reservation land and sacred to the Rotorua Te Arawa Peoples.  Green Lake's proper name is Lake Rotokakahi, and supposedly shines emerald green as it's more shallow than Blue Lake.  Naturally, because it was off limits I really wanted to see it.

Satisfied with a photo we must be:

I feel like this is a good place for a pause to share with you a tidbit we learned about how to pronounce Māori words.  "Wh" is pronounced as an "f" sound.  So, give that a try with Whakarewarewa.  Ha!  A favorite:  Whakapapa (pronounced fakapapa).  Came in really handy when we were irritated.  Yes, we are 10.  Whakapapa is a ski area on Mount Ruapehu, as well as the Māori concept of genealogy.  And, doesn't it just roll satisfactorily off the tongue.

Focus people!  Back to the plot... We find an early dinner at Abracadabra Cafe.  Seated on the porch, we watch folks on their way home from work and headed to happy hour on a Friday evening.  An older couple with two dogs is seated next to us, and we enjoy visiting with their fur friends, as Jayme calls them.  We're missing Willow, and wishing she would behave herself in public like these two guys do.

After dinner, we are in bed early.  We are old and we (Jayme) needs rest.   Day 4 is a long drive to Wellington, and we have some adventuring to do!

And by adventuring I mean we will be venturing into the heart of Mordor...


*Smithsonian Institution National Museum of Natural History Global Volcanism Program