Monday, May 27, 2019

#BonnieandTarasExcellentAdventures: Exploring Charleston & the Lowcountry, Part 3

This is the final chapter in the riveting adventures of Tara & Bonnie in the Charleston, South Carolina area.  You can find Part 1 here and Part 2 here.

Adventure date:  Tuesday, May 21, 2019.

Today we visited two plantations.  First stop, Magnolia Plantation and Gardens.

Magnolia Plantation and Gardens


But first, again, 32+ ounces of water, plus a very tasty iced chai latte from Superior Coffee & Carolina Cider, after a two-hour drive.  Right.  The ladies room.  Check.  And oh look who else drank too much water?

Bypassed the men's room and stopped just shy of the ladies' entrance.  I'm guessing she was looking for privacy.

And the adventure begins!






Magnolia Gardens are just lovely.  It is a romantic-style garden, which seeks to cooperate with nature to create tranquility where humanity and nature are in harmony.  Achieved.  Pretty sure we could have wandered for most of the daylight hours and still found beautiful scenes to enjoy.

Magnolia Plantation was established by the Drayton Family in 1676.  It was a working rice plantation during antebellum years.  It became a garden open to the public in 1870.  The Reverend John G Drayton was owner of the plantation during Civil War times.  As a younger brother in the family, his first calling was as a minister.  After his older brother died in an unfortunate accident, he was called home to run the plantation.  He suffered from an illness and was advised to get outdoors as a cure.  He took up gardening and partnered with the head gardener to grow the original, formal French-style garden into what it is today.














Magnolia Plantation has an interesting history on both sides of the Civil War, and did not escape the devastation that ensued during the war.  The current house is an expansion of a house constructed after the Civil War.  The grand facade you see today was added in the 1990s.


The Drayton's are of the founding members of Charleston society, and thus enjoyed status and with some post-Civil War creativity managed to keep the property within the family.  It is still owned and run by the Drayton family.

A few sights as we wandered further into the gardens:








































Yes, it was hot and humid.  Don't judge the handheld fan.  You're missing the grand, moss-draped oak and delightful azaleas.









This is part of the original, formal garden planted by the first Lady Drayton.




























Peacocks!


















Yes, the gardens are just lovely.  But you know what was most impactful?  The From Slavery to Freedom Tour.  And you know what's sad?  The tour guide mentioned that this tour is the least purchased tour on the plantation.  We tend to shy away from the hard truths.  And this tour was full of hard truths.

We walked through four cabins that had been restored to represent various periods of the plantation's history.  The first represented slave quarters from the 1850s, when a whole family occupied one-half of the house.  A whole family.  Inside each was a rough hearth.  Some of them showed a bed made of rough-hewn logs and rope.  The last displayed period crockery and household goods.

It was awful, especially imagining the heat, humidity, mosquitoes and pests.  Not to mention the hopelessness and cruelty.  The rich Charlestonians retreated to their other homes on the bay or up in the mountains to escape the heat and mosquitoes, while slave labor mucked out wealth on their behalf.

Each of the homes had been lived in up through the 1990s!  What!?!  Electricity was added in the 1960s, and running water in the 1970s.  What!?!

Why would we have anyone living in these conditions in the twentieth century?

Preposterous.

Our tour guide, Joe, is an interesting fellow with a passion for reminding us of the truth of slavery and it's predominance across the country before the Civil War.  It's so easy to gloss over the suffering and inhumanity.  He started The Slave Dwelling Project to tell the full story.  Truly, it's preposterous that tourists come to a plantation and avoid seeing the full story.  They do realize what a plantation was all about here in the States, right?  Plantations wouldn't have been plantations without the slaves to muck through the marsh, constructing and farming rice paddies, in this case.  Joe, thank you for telling the full story.

It's about 2:30pm once we get a bite to eat and finish up garden wanderings.  We figure we have just enough time for a very quick visit to the Charleston Tea Plantation, home of American Classic Tea and the only large-scale production tea farm in the US.
















Charleston Tea Plantation

It's a whole farm of glorious tea.  And it's pretty tasty, too!

We made it just in time for the last tour of the tea factory and the trolley tour of the plantation grounds.

But first, a kiss for Sir Waddy, the tea plantation's mascot.

I was relieved to learn that Charleston Tea Plantation is a recent investment.  The tea plants they cultivate were growing wild on Pinehurst Plantation, owned by a one Dr. Charles Shepard who propagated tea plants from China from 1888 to 1915.  The Lipton Company purchased the land the plantation is currently on in 1967 and then William Barclay Hall, a tea connoisseur, purchased the farm in 1987.  Mr. Hall still runs the farm, but it's now owned by The Bigelow Family.



Shown above is the custom-designed tea cropper created just for this plantation.  It give the tea plants a nice thin trim off the top and collects the cuttings.  They have just the one, and hopefully a very engaged person who keeps it in working order.


The trolley ride through the plantation was delightful and informative.  A great stop to top-off the day.

As were these fun pics:












Because who doesn't want their picture next to the world's largest cup of sweet tea. #onlyintheusa

















We picked up dinner on the way home to enjoy on the deck, then had time to walk the beach one last time before we had to call it a day.  Truth:  "Every Lowcountry sky is a gift."


💛 T's fave today = tour and perspective of the slave homes
💛 B's fave today = Charleston Tea Plantation + one last visit to the beach

It was a great trip.  It was awesome both spending quality time with Tara and exploring a part of the country I'd not experienced.

Friends, importantly:  "Don't let the sugar settle into the bottom of the glass."

A few references are from Good Morning, Lowcountry!  Local knowledge, odd facts, recipes, survival tips for...Living in the South Carolina Swamp by Harriet McLeod.


#BonnieandTarasExcellentAdventures: Exploring Charleston & the Lowcountry, Part 2

This is a continuation of the crazy (ok, not so much) adventures of Tara & Bonnie in the Charleston, South Carolina area.  You can find Part 1 here.

Adventure date:  Monday, May 20, 2019

Today, on Memorial Day, as I'm reading and reflecting before I continue sharing about our Charleston adventures, you know what I've learned?  In April 1865, a group of courageous, hard working African-American Charlestonians dug up and re-interred a mass grave of 257 Union soldiers into proper graves in a newly created cemetery.  On May 1, 1865, a parade led by flower-toting African-American schoolchildren marched to the graveyard where a graveside service ensued.  They called it Decoration Day.  The first day of remembrance for fallen soldiers was an act of great kindness after a devastating, harsh, polarizing season of war.  Memorializing Day, indeed.  The resilience and heartfulness of many of the people who make up this great country never ceases to amaze me.

Now, let us tell you about Charleston.



Right, let's go!

We are up early to get in a full day of Charleston exploration.  But first we drive.  And drive.  Almost two hours of driving to get from our lovely beach to Charleston.  Referencing the quote from Part 1 (here):  "Things take longer than you think they will."  And drivers in SC, they can be confounding.  For such an independent-minded state, they are awfully obedient to speed limits.  On your tail until you are five miles over the speed limit, then it's whoa buddy.  And driving side-by-side at the same speed, no problem.  Like, let's have a leisurely conversation through the car windows on the highway at 65 mph.  So, #ihaveadrivingthing.  Common rules of courtesy apply on the highway just as anywhere, People, as my trusty Dad taught me.  Right, I digress.

First stop, White Point Garden and The Battery.  









This cannon is an original from the USS Keokuk, a Union iron-clad warship that was sunk off Morris Island by Confederate gunners at Fort Sumter.  Confederate forces were desperate for heavy weapons and mounted an underwater salvage operation at night, under the noses of the Union blockade to free the canon and bring it ashore.  Pretty amazing.  And here it sits.  Well, then I learned that was another canon in the Garden.  But still.  This one in particular had been in service at Fort Sumter. 


Then up Bay Street over old, uneven bricked sidewalks to the painted ladies on Rainbow Row.  Tara, I think the pink one has your destiny written on it.






At this point along our journey, we've drunk like 32+ ounces of water, plus tea, in the span of two hours on the way to Charleston, and if we don't find a restroom soon my bladder will explode and Tara will be embarrassed (of me, that is).  We duck into a cute bakery in a converted historical building of some import, I'm sure.  At this point, I don't even care.  I throw money at her to buy a bakery something and run off to the restroom.  One bio break + chocolate cookie later we are ready to find a lunch spot.

You can't just rush lunch, folks.  Finding vegan food in the south is like passing semi-trucks driving side-by-side chatting.  Good luck.  So we have to pause and check out menus.  And Tara is awesome about making sure there's something I will enjoy, too.  Brown Dog Deli is a good find.  And not just because they offer a couple of veggie options.  But also because they appreciate rock n' roll, and auspiciously have this record album cover hanging over our booth →

Come on.  Olivia Newton John with googly eyes.  Best find of the day.  The end.


Ok, so maybe the cool, foliage draped alleys are better finds.  But whatever.

We'd read that the optimal two-hour parking we found was strictly enforced, so decided to head back to Murray Boulevard to move the car to a parking garage, so we wouldn't have to worry about it.  Angling back down to the car on Church Street was perfect.  Antebellum homes in classical revival and federal styles abound in these neighborhoods.  We had fun just moseying along eyeing the very well restored homes, peeking into gardens and tight alleys, and avoiding horse carriage smells.
These two pics are on Stoll's Alley.  

We found optimal parking in a garage at the corner of Queen & King Streets.  Royalty anyone?

On that note, it's time for a short history lesson, Charleston was named after King Charles II of England, a merry kind of monarch, who loved a lively, pleasure-filled life.  It was first settled in 1670, and reflected Restoration England, a sharp contrast to the Puritans settlers in the Boston area.  It was meant to be a miniature London filled with landed gentry.  And the mini antebellum mc-mansions did make me think of puffed up gentlemen or bejeweled mistresses, vying for appeal and attention.  We certainly enjoyed admiring them, the next one even more gracious and lovely than the next.

After getting settled without having to worry about parking fines, we find the Preservation Society of Charleston.  A great (but not cheap) shop with locally crafted items and a bookshop with finds all about Charleston and South Carolina.  We're on King Street, where shopping ensues daily.  We wander down to Market Street to check out Historic Charleston City Market and wander the stalls looking for goodies.  One of my favorite things about adventuring with my Bestie?  She doesn't mind taking our time looking at all the things, seeing what treasures we might find and suggesting things each other might like.  (Tar, I still think the bag in BLACK would have been a good choice.  You can't have too many BLACK shoulder bags. #justsayin) 















The famous pineapple fountain (so called by the Google) in Waterfront Park was a must see + selfie destination. 

Artful selfies are diagonal.










It's a hot, steamy day, and Tara has a good idea: let's ride the water ferry and check out the bay.  An hour cruising the bay was just what we needed.  We chatted with the young captain about his love of anything sailing, and watched a huge, black storm roll in to the north of us.  We ferried to the aquarium drop point, Patriot's Point where a retired aircraft carrier rests, another resort stop and then back to Charleston bay.  Perfect.


That's the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge.  Lovely, eh?

We're in the French Quarter of the city, and Tara suggests a stop to get a drink on a rooftop restaurant.  Marvy plan.  Up to The Rooftop we go.  No, really, it's called The Rooftop at the Vendue Hotel.  Up a very small, slow elevator to a fun, people watching scene.  Apps + drinks are perfect as the shadows begin to lengthen and the heat lightens up.

It's about 6pm and time to think about heading back towards Beaufort and Harbor Island.  It's on the walk back down Queen Street that we begin to have an eye for the many churches in Charleston, and I'm remembering it's nick name "The Holy City."  For good reason.  There are many lovely houses of worship and praise-worthy steeples.
That's the French Huguenot Church.  I've not heard of this particular denomination.  So I googled, and here's their purpose, which I love:
"Our purpose is to unite in worship of and obedience to our Lord in all things, to share God's word, and to show our love for God and one another, while standing firm in our faith, unashamed of the gospel of Christ, as the Huguenot founders of our church did, to the glory of God, through our Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ."
They've been established here since 1680, built their first church in 1687.  The Gothic Revival building there today was established in 1845.  They are currently not affiliated with a denomination, preferring independence during this time of interdenominational strife.  Indeed.  Keep on, keepin' on, brothers and sisters.






And here's St. Philip's Church.  It was also founded in 1680, and is of the Anglican Communion.  It's experienced a lot of historical trauma during the Revolutionary and Civil Wars.  

I'm wondering if living in Charleston, named for the pleasure-loving King Charles + becoming "The Holy City," wasn't too dissimilar from the Southern Baptist culture.  Party late on Saturday; up early for church on Sunday.





Drive back to the condo, and then we take this lowcountry saying to heart: "Remember to do nothing when nothing is required."

💛 T's fave today = the lovely restored antebellum homes
💛 B's fave today = walking the streets of Charleston discovering the sights

For those of you still jelly about my hat, Amazon.  For those who want to read on, Part 3 will be linked here when fresh.

A few references are from Good Morning, Lowcountry!  Local knowledge, odd facts, recipes, survival tips for...Living in the South Carolina Swamp by Harriet McLeod and A Short History of Charleston by Robert Rosen.


#BonnieandTarasExcellentAdventures: Exploring Charleston & the Lowcountry, Part 1

Adventure dates:  Saturday, May 18 to Wednesday, May 22

If you take nothing away from this post about a quaint visit to the low country of South Carolina, take this one pithy quip:  "Those pants are so tight I can see her religion."

Okay, and maybe this picture, too:

Harbor Island Beach @ Dusk
In addition to experiencing religion and peaceful sunsets on a dreamy beach, we also toured plantations, explored Charleston Bay, walked among grand moss-draped oaks, climbed a retired lighthouse, shopped (of course), gaped at courtly antebellum homes and were educated on the rich, local history.  Oh, and we clocked quite a few hours driving through swamp.

This was the view from our condo on Harbor Island.  Just lovely:


This I chose to ignore:

...because why worry?  We are on an adventure!  Plus, the promise of a baby loggerhead turtle nest sighting was more exciting!

We arrived in Charleston on Saturday afternoon, and picked up our car.

Sidebar Rant: This car rental experience was the usual, inefficient one. You know the one, where you wait forever for too few Reps and then wait forever while they type madly on the keyboard and squint at the computer screen. Why? Why do car rental companies not adopt more efficient methods? All that they are asking me about while typing madly, I entered online when I reserved the car. No, I'm never going to purchase insurance and no, not even the roadside assistance, that no, wasn't on the online reservation I made. And Tara, great job channeling serenity while waiting for the loooonnngg transaction to come to an eye-rolling close. Thrifty, should you review this post like, ever, I highly encourage you to reach out to my friend Tara, who could maximize the heck out of your processes. And I bet she'd do it for the promise of an improved future experience and no more Ford Fiestas with yours truly behind the wheel. Throw in a few free rentals, and man, that's a good offer. Sidebar rant closed.

After a cute and very fried lunch, we headed to the condo.  Eh condo; lovely views.  Grocery trip for required snacks and breakfast foods.  Then, a tasty bev on the beach.  Hello vacation.


Beaches + Lighthouse


Sunday is beach day.  And light house day.  And walk around Beaufort day.

But first, we suit up.  For me that's a long-sleeved beach shirt and swim PANTS.  Yes, Tara, I'm owning with pride the swim PANTS.  I'm lucky she can stand to hang out with me.  Darn, no pictures with the swim PANTS.  Oh wait... she snuck one in.  Friends, I would be happy to go to the beach with you to show them off.  Use the contact page to submit your PTO request.  I horde them (PTO days that is), so make it compelling.  Yup, backpack comes with.

Anyways... where was I?  Ah yes, the beach!  And specifically the beach at Hunting Island State Park.

We drove into the park on a narrow road lined closely by grand oaks, pines and palms.  It was beautiful and otherworldly.








We make our first stop an exploration of the only publicly accessible lighthouse in South Carolina.

The Hunting Island Lighthouse was first placed in 1859, burned by Confederate soldiers in 1861, then rebuilt in 1875, and in use until 1933.  Cool fact:  it was fabricated from cast-iron plates designed to be disassembled and put back together should they need to relocate the lighthouse.  Which they indeed did need to do, as the shoreline eroded.








The spiral staircase was pretty neat, and stopping at each landing to read lighthouse history made the climb of 167 steps pretty easy.


















The views from the top of the lighthouse were very worth the climb.


The beach on Hunting Island is lovely -- white sands and clear waters bordered by a semi-tropical forest. We loved the strands of pine and palmettos standing watch over the crystal beaches.














After exploring the beach, we walked a short boardwalk through the saltwater marsh.  Pluff mud is the main ingredient to a good marshy swamp, and lots of teensy, busy critters call it home.  Wee crabs, minnows and tadpoles galore.  Pluff mud, in short, is top soil that runs off into rivers and is deposited downstream in mudflats.  A local author calls it "primordial ooze."  Smelled pretty oozish.

Lunch and deck relaxing back at the condo.  Beach life is good life.













Beaufort

I should like to pronounce it Beaux•for, in the French style.

We didn't know when we arrived that we wanted to explore Beaufort.  Passing through on the way to Harbor Island, we decided it was worth checking out.  It's a smallish antebellum-style city nestled on the tip of a peninsula.  A nice walk before locating dinner sounded just the thing.












Bay Street is a main street in Beaux•for, running along the... bay. It showcases a quaint downtown with cute shops and eateries.

There's a waterfront park with swings mounted between pillars covered with trailing ivy.  It's a perfect place to sit, feel the cool breeze, watch boats going to and fro from the marina, and look out over the marshlands stretching to the Atlantic.  We did that for a bit.






Then we headed into town to get a look-see at the antebellum homes.  White-columned, elegant mansions built in the prosperous years before the Civil War in the South.

Many were for sale, like this one, called the Secession House, where the Rhett Brothers argued for secession from the US just before the Civil War in the 1850s.  It was built in 1810, and then purchased and renovated by Edmund Rhett who was a politician and business man in South Carolina.

Speaking of the Civil War.  Processing the history in this part of the country is overwhelming and not without emotion.  Beaufort itself served as key roles for both sides during the Revolutionary War and the Civil War.

This is the Tabernacle Baptist Church, formed by some of the African American members of the Beaufort Baptist Church. Such history within those walls, while serving modern day believers, as well.

Last stop of the day: ice cream treat at Kilwins.  Then it's back through the marsh and to the beach we go.  Another evening enjoying a tasty bev sitting on the beach (until the mosquitos strike) is a pretty great way to end Day 1.

💛 T's fave today = the magical drive into Hunting Beach State Park
💛 B's fave today = the lighthouse and walking the beaches


Day 2's adventure will be here, once ready for the telling.  Until then, here's a Lowcountry truth to ponder that will be relevant on Day 2:  "Things take longer than you think they will." 





A few references are from "Good Morning, Lowcountry!  Local knowledge, odd facts, recipes, survival tips for...Living in the South Carolina Swamp"by Harriet McLeod, a fun, locally published book I picked up in Beaufort.