Adventure date: Monday, May 20, 2019
Today, on Memorial Day, as I'm reading and reflecting before I continue sharing about our Charleston adventures, you know what I've learned? In April 1865, a group of courageous, hard working African-American Charlestonians dug up and re-interred a mass grave of 257 Union soldiers into proper graves in a newly created cemetery. On May 1, 1865, a parade led by flower-toting African-American schoolchildren marched to the graveyard where a graveside service ensued. They called it Decoration Day. The first day of remembrance for fallen soldiers was an act of great kindness after a devastating, harsh, polarizing season of war. Memorializing Day, indeed. The resilience and heartfulness of many of the people who make up this great country never ceases to amaze me.Now, let us tell you about Charleston.
Right, let's go!
We are up early to get in a full day of Charleston exploration. But first we drive. And drive. Almost two hours of driving to get from our lovely beach to Charleston. Referencing the quote from Part 1 (here): "Things take longer than you think they will." And drivers in SC, they can be confounding. For such an independent-minded state, they are awfully obedient to speed limits. On your tail until you are five miles over the speed limit, then it's whoa buddy. And driving side-by-side at the same speed, no problem. Like, let's have a leisurely conversation through the car windows on the highway at 65 mph. So, #ihaveadrivingthing. Common rules of courtesy apply on the highway just as anywhere, People, as my trusty Dad taught me. Right, I digress.
First stop, White Point Garden and The Battery.
This cannon is an original from the USS Keokuk, a Union iron-clad warship that was sunk off Morris Island by Confederate gunners at Fort Sumter. Confederate forces were desperate for heavy weapons and mounted an underwater salvage operation at night, under the noses of the Union blockade to free the canon and bring it ashore. Pretty amazing. And here it sits. Well, then I learned that was another canon in the Garden. But still. This one in particular had been in service at Fort Sumter.
Then up Bay Street over old, uneven bricked sidewalks to the painted ladies on Rainbow Row. Tara, I think the pink one has your destiny written on it.
At this point along our journey, we've drunk like 32+ ounces of water, plus tea, in the span of two hours on the way to Charleston, and if we don't find a restroom soon my bladder will explode and Tara will be embarrassed (of me, that is). We duck into a cute bakery in a converted historical building of some import, I'm sure. At this point, I don't even care. I throw money at her to buy a bakery something and run off to the restroom. One bio break + chocolate cookie later we are ready to find a lunch spot.
You can't just rush lunch, folks. Finding vegan food in the south is like passing semi-trucks driving side-by-side chatting. Good luck. So we have to pause and check out menus. And Tara is awesome about making sure there's something I will enjoy, too. Brown Dog Deli is a good find. And not just because they offer a couple of veggie options. But also because they appreciate rock n' roll, and auspiciously have this record album cover hanging over our booth →
Come on. Olivia Newton John with googly eyes. Best find of the day. The end.
We'd read that the optimal two-hour parking we found was strictly enforced, so decided to head back to Murray Boulevard to move the car to a parking garage, so we wouldn't have to worry about it. Angling back down to the car on Church Street was perfect. Antebellum homes in classical revival and federal styles abound in these neighborhoods. We had fun just moseying along eyeing the very well restored homes, peeking into gardens and tight alleys, and avoiding horse carriage smells.
These two pics are on Stoll's Alley.
We found optimal parking in a garage at the corner of Queen & King Streets. Royalty anyone?
On that note, it's time for a short history lesson, Charleston was named after King Charles II of England, a merry kind of monarch, who loved a lively, pleasure-filled life. It was first settled in 1670, and reflected Restoration England, a sharp contrast to the Puritans settlers in the Boston area. It was meant to be a miniature London filled with landed gentry. And the mini antebellum mc-mansions did make me think of puffed up gentlemen or bejeweled mistresses, vying for appeal and attention. We certainly enjoyed admiring them, the next one even more gracious and lovely than the next.
After getting settled without having to worry about parking fines, we find the Preservation Society of Charleston. A great (but not cheap) shop with locally crafted items and a bookshop with finds all about Charleston and South Carolina. We're on King Street, where shopping ensues daily. We wander down to Market Street to check out Historic Charleston City Market and wander the stalls looking for goodies. One of my favorite things about adventuring with my Bestie? She doesn't mind taking our time looking at all the things, seeing what treasures we might find and suggesting things each other might like. (Tar, I still think the bag in BLACK would have been a good choice. You can't have too many BLACK shoulder bags. #justsayin)
The famous pineapple fountain (so called by the Google) in Waterfront Park was a must see + selfie destination.
Artful selfies are diagonal.
It's a hot, steamy day, and Tara has a good idea: let's ride the water ferry and check out the bay. An hour cruising the bay was just what we needed. We chatted with the young captain about his love of anything sailing, and watched a huge, black storm roll in to the north of us. We ferried to the aquarium drop point, Patriot's Point where a retired aircraft carrier rests, another resort stop and then back to Charleston bay. Perfect.
That's the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge. Lovely, eh?
We're in the French Quarter of the city, and Tara suggests a stop to get a drink on a rooftop restaurant. Marvy plan. Up to The Rooftop we go. No, really, it's called The Rooftop at the Vendue Hotel. Up a very small, slow elevator to a fun, people watching scene. Apps + drinks are perfect as the shadows begin to lengthen and the heat lightens up.
It's about 6pm and time to think about heading back towards Beaufort and Harbor Island. It's on the walk back down Queen Street that we begin to have an eye for the many churches in Charleston, and I'm remembering it's nick name "The Holy City." For good reason. There are many lovely houses of worship and praise-worthy steeples.
That's the French Huguenot Church. I've not heard of this particular denomination. So I googled, and here's their purpose, which I love:
"Our purpose is to unite in worship of and obedience to our Lord in all things, to share God's word, and to show our love for God and one another, while standing firm in our faith, unashamed of the gospel of Christ, as the Huguenot founders of our church did, to the glory of God, through our Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ."
They've been established here since 1680, built their first church in 1687. The Gothic Revival building there today was established in 1845. They are currently not affiliated with a denomination, preferring independence during this time of interdenominational strife. Indeed. Keep on, keepin' on, brothers and sisters.
And here's St. Philip's Church. It was also founded in 1680, and is of the Anglican Communion. It's experienced a lot of historical trauma during the Revolutionary and Civil Wars.
I'm wondering if living in Charleston, named for the pleasure-loving King Charles + becoming "The Holy City," wasn't too dissimilar from the Southern Baptist culture. Party late on Saturday; up early for church on Sunday.
Drive back to the condo, and then we take this lowcountry saying to heart: "Remember to do nothing when nothing is required."
💛 T's fave today = the lovely restored antebellum homes
💛 B's fave today = walking the streets of Charleston discovering the sights
💛 T's fave today = the lovely restored antebellum homes
💛 B's fave today = walking the streets of Charleston discovering the sights
For those of you still jelly about my hat, Amazon. For those who want to read on, Part 3 will be linked here when fresh.
A few references are from Good Morning, Lowcountry! Local knowledge, odd facts, recipes, survival tips for...Living in the South Carolina Swamp by Harriet McLeod and A Short History of Charleston by Robert Rosen.
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